Ten days in Estonia: Day ten-and-a-half

I am a bad tourist.

I’m sure the hardcore would’ve squeezed in an extra museum, but despite being up early enough to consider doing some extra last-minute tourism, I thought it best to spend the time packing, cleaning the apartment and getting ready for my return flight. And eating crisps.

Tallinn is glorious. It feels like a small city because so much is concentrated into the 1km² of the Vanalinn that exploration further afield isn’t absolutely necessary, but Wikipedia tells me there are another 158km² to be explored. I didn’t use public transport much but when I did, it worked. I like that pedestrians and drivers alike respect each other and the colour of their respective lights, and that everyday tasks such as parking a car (Watchnerd) or using a tram have been simplified to be easy. I usually like to keep a handful of 2€ coins (alongside the fridge magnet) but everything is contactless; even Tomas in his little watchmaker’s window.

Host met with me for a final stroll through the old town (I thought of someone else who might like a postcard) and then we settled in Hetk for final breakfast and coffee.

The Hetk experience was fun. I asked to be surprised by my coffee, which I duly was. I’m not entirely certain what the unique taste was, but after some sniffing and sipping Host and I decided it was best described as ‘farmyard’. I later refined that definition to ‘silage’. I was forewarned — with the offer of a replacement cup — so this is not a complaint. Unfortunately, we hadn’t noticed that time was marching on so I didn’t get my replacement as I was suddenly thrown into a whirlwhind of “The bags!” when we clocked (pun intentional) it was 2pm.

The number four tram goes from right next to the apartment (Vabaduse Väljak) and drops you right outside the terminal building — there isn’t even need to cross the road when you get there. The line runs past a mixture of colourful old wooden houses and grey Soviet era buildings, the last being one that looks as if it houses the tower.

I got there with plenty of time to spare/waste and found that there’s plenty to do air-side and a vast collection of shops, restaurants and bars — a stark contrast to my experiences of CDG 2B on the way out. I bought a very large (and very expensive) gin and tonic and sat in the bar next to my gate. We boarded, the plane went up, stayed up, and then went back down again into a dull and rainy Paris.

Although the landing time was as expected on the boarding pass, there was still a good five or ten minutes of taxiing and then another fifteen or so of walking before I got on the RER B. It was busy (I should have perhaps waited for the next one) and a small woman next to me was catching up on her telenovela until it was time for me to change at Denfert-Rocherau, whence three stops to Montparnasse (not the concrete monstrosity you’re looking for) on the four. If memory serves, the six would’ve involved less walking. At least the magic floor was working.

My TGV was about 15 minutes late due to “regulation of traffic” — whatever that means — and the hour-long wait was most unpleasant. Montparnasse-de-Sade was heaving, for some reason, which meant little opportunity to sit and the food pickings were slim. After much trudging I ended up with a goat cheese and walnut baguette (interesting) and some chocolate cake.

I ate my baguette on the train while the girl in seat 75 fervently discussed with son cœur something that Alex and Pauline had done while eating an avocado. The girl was eating the avocado, not the protagonists — obviously — but whatever it was that they had done, son cœur was very clearly concerned about because seat 75 was making soothing noises and pointing out that people who have been in relationships for shorter or longer periods of time split up eventually. Or don’t. There was definitely some sort of fire-fighting in progress; son cœur was feeling something that often made seat 75 feel profoundly desolated.

Sadly, I shall never know how the cliffhanger was resolved because a combination of patchy phone coverage, the “please make your phone calls from the vestibule” announcement, and people’s disapproving looks eventually forced the conversation to text. The avocado looked tasty.

The girl in the seat opposite looked relieved when it was all over.